What Role Does Indigenous Jewelry Play in Northwest Coast Ceremonies and Culture?

• Posted on 15 July 2025
• 0

Jewelry has long played a vital role in the cultural, spiritual, and social life of the Indigenous peoples of the Northwest Coast. From the intricate silver bracelets of the Haida master Charles Edenshaw to the bold argillite carvings popularized by Bill Reid, Northwest Coast jewelry is far more than decorative—it is a profound expression of identity, status, and tradition. 

Understanding how and why different pieces were traditionally worn, who wore them, and how these practices continue today helps deepen appreciation for this unique art form and its ongoing cultural significance.

Traditional Roles of Jewelry in Northwest Coast Societies

Among the many Indigenous Nations of the Northwest Coast—including the Haida, Gitxsan, Tlingit, Coast Salish, Kwakwaka’wakw, and others—jewelry was intimately tied to ceremonial life, social hierarchy, and storytelling.

Symbol of Status and Clan Identity

Jewelry often served as a visible marker of status, wealth, and clan membership. Elaborate pieces were typically worn by hereditary chiefs, nobles, and important community members during potlatches and other ceremonies. The materials used—such as sterling silver, copper, argillite, and abalone shell—reflected the wearer’s rank and prestige.

For example, copper was known as the “money” of the Northwest Coast and was highly valued. Large sheets of copper were sometimes worn as chest plates or incorporated into jewelry to signify wealth and power. Similarly, intricately carved silver bracelets or necklaces bearing clan crests and animals like the raven or eagle conveyed authority and lineage.

Ceremonial and Spiritual Significance

Jewelry pieces often held deep spiritual meaning. Animal motifs and formline designs carved or etched into jewelry represented ancestral stories, guardian spirits, and clan histories. Wearing these pieces in ceremonies connected the wearer to their heritage and the natural world.

Potlatches—central ceremonial gatherings among Northwest Coast peoples—were occasions when jewelry was prominently displayed and gifted. Such gifting reinforced social bonds and redistributed wealth, with jewelry serving as both a personal adornment and a communal symbol.

Moon Mask Repousse Pendant with Abalone Inlay. A stunning example of masterful Northwest Coast artistry.

What Role Did Gender Roles Play in Northwest Coast Jewelry?

While many pieces were traditionally worn by men, women also played important roles in jewelry making and wearing. Women often crafted jewelry or contributed to its production through skills like silversmithing or carving. Some pieces were specifically made for women or children, such as certain types of earrings, pendants, or shell ornaments.

Jewelry was also part of regalia worn during dances and storytelling, where both men and women showcased their cultural roles and identities through adornment.

Traditional Jewelry Types and Their Uses

Northwest Coast jewelry encompasses a variety of forms, each with its own cultural context:

• Bracelets and Cuffs: Often made of silver or copper, these were worn by high-status individuals and could bear clan crests or symbolic motifs.

• Necklaces and Pendants: Materials ranged from silver and argillite to shell and bone, frequently featuring animals or mythological figures significant to the wearer’s clan.

• Earrings: Both men and women wore earrings, sometimes large and elaborate, made from silver or shell.

• Rings and Pins: Used less frequently but still important, often featuring intricate designs.

Haida Argillite Mouse Woman Pendant

How Northwest Coast Jewelry Traditions Have Evolved Over Time

While the traditional social structures and ceremonial contexts have evolved over time, jewelry remains a powerful cultural medium in contemporary Indigenous life.

Revival of Traditional Art Forms

The 20th and 21st centuries have seen a vibrant revival of Northwest Coast art and jewelry-making traditions. Artists draw deeply from ancestral techniques and motifs while embracing contemporary styles and materials, playing a vital role in preserving jewelry as a powerful expression of identity, status, and cultural storytelling.

Visionaries like the late Mungo Martin (Kwakwaka’wakw) and today’s leading figures—including Dan Wallace, Jay Simeon, and Corey Bulpitt (all Haida)—have preserved and reimagined these traditions through masterful silver and gold craftsmanship. Innovators such as Susan Point (Coast Salish) continue to enrich the art form by blending ancestral motifs with modern materials, while the enduring influence of the late Richie Baker shapes how Indigenous identity and tradition are expressed through jewelry today.

While the art form has evolved, its ceremonial significance remains strong. Potlatches and other cultural gatherings continue to showcase traditional regalia and jewelry, with many Indigenous artists creating pieces that honor their heritage and are worn both in ceremonial contexts and everyday life.

Jewelry as Cultural Assertion and Identity

In modern times, wearing Northwest Coast jewelry has become an important way for Indigenous peoples to assert their identity, connect with their roots, and educate others about their culture. Jewelry is also a form of storytelling, with artists embedding meaning and narratives into each piece.

For Indigenous youth and urban populations—such as in Vancouver—jewelry offers a tangible link to cultural heritage, fostering pride and continuity despite historical disruptions.

Expanding Audiences and Ethical Considerations

Today, authentic Northwest Coast jewelry is also appreciated by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. This increased interest brings opportunities and challenges around cultural appropriation, authenticity, and ethical sourcing.

Many Indigenous artists and communities emphasize the importance of purchasing from trusted sources to support the preservation of cultural knowledge and ensure artists are fairly compensated.

Jay Simeon Haida Two Finned Killer Whale Earrings

Who Wears Northwest Coast Jewelry Today—and Why?

• Indigenous Communities: For ceremonial purposes, cultural expression, and personal identity.

• Collectors and Museums: To preserve and showcase Indigenous art heritage.

• Non-Indigenous Admirers: When respectfully acquired, Northwest Coast jewelry can be appreciated as fine art and cultural illumination, though understanding context and sourcing is essential.

Conclusion: More Than Decoration—Jewelry as Living Culture

Northwest Coast Indigenous jewelry is a living tradition, deeply woven into the fabric of cultural identity, ceremony, and artistry. From its traditional roles marking status and clan heritage to its place in contemporary cultural expression, jewelry continues to tell stories and connect generations.

By learning about how these pieces were and are worn, who wears them, and their meanings, we gain a richer understanding of the Northwest Coast’s vibrant Indigenous cultures. Supporting authentic Indigenous jewelry helps honour these traditions and the artists who keep them alive today.

Discover authentic Northwest Coast Native American jewelry and support Indigenous artists at Cheryl’s Trading Post.